Shima Rakkyo: Okinawa’s Small, Sharp Island Onion

Sit down at almost any izakaya in Okinawa, and sooner or later you'll spot it on the menu: shima rakkyo. It looks humble, just a handful of slim white bulbs with a bit of green on top. But one bite, and you'll understand why this little island onion has such a loyal following.

What Is Shima Rakkyo?

Rakkyo is a member of the onion family that's eaten across Japan. In English it's sometimes called a Chinese onion or Japanese scallion. Shima means "island," and shima rakkyo is the Okinawan kind. It's generally smaller and slimmer than the rakkyo grown on Japan's main islands, and it has a stronger aroma and a sharper, peppery bite.

On the main islands, rakkyo is most often pickled in sweet vinegar. In Okinawa, people usually enjoy shima rakkyo in simpler ways that let its natural heat come through.

Shima rakkyo is generally said to be at its best from late winter into early summer. Iejima, a small island off the Motobu Peninsula, is often mentioned as one of the well-known places where it's grown.

Two Classic Ways to Eat It

• Shio-zuke (salted): The bulbs are cleaned, trimmed, and rubbed with salt, then left for a short time. They're served topped with a little pile of katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes). Some people add a splash of soy sauce, too.
• Tempura: Whole bulbs, often with some of the green still attached, are dipped in batter and fried. If you've read about Okinawan tempura, you already know the island likes its batter on the thicker, more satisfying side.

You may also find shima rakkyo chopped into stir-fries or other home-style dishes. Salted and fried, though, are the two you'll see most often.

My Shima Rakkyo Story

For me, shima rakkyo is izakaya food. That's where I've eaten it almost every time. It also seems to be one of those dishes that everyone loves. Tourists order it to try something new, and locals order it because it's simply part of a good night out.

I started with the salted version. The pungent, slightly spicy kick of the raw bulb is unique, and it's a perfect match for the smoky, savory katsuobushi on top. As I've lived in Okinawa longer, though, I find myself ordering the tempura more and more. My tip: skip the dipping sauce and eat it with just a sprinkle of salt. Frying softens the sharpness and brings out a gentle sweetness, and the salt makes it shine.

Where to Try It

If you visit Okinawa, look for shima rakkyo at izakaya, where both the salted and tempura versions are common. Fresh bulbs and ready-made salted shima rakkyo can also be found at local supermarkets and markets, especially in season. Okinawan izakaya menus are full of local flavors like this, from shima rakkyo to drinks brightened with a squeeze of shikuwasa. Sampling a few side by side is half the fun.

Bring a Taste of Okinawa Home

Shima rakkyo isn't something we pack in our boxes. But if there's an Okinawan flavor you'd love to see in one, please let us know! In the meantime, CHURA PANTRY delivers a box of Okinawan sweets straight to your door.

Koei